the streets of toledo

april 18, 2008 - the streets of toledo

It's both easy and hard to believe it's been over a month since I was in Spain. It feels so long ago, yet it also feels like I haven't had much time to just reflect upon my trip and bask in the memory of how wonderful it was. But this morning as the sun starts to illuminate my living room I am doing just that.

I remember lying on the bed of my adorable little hotel room in Toledo listening to Johnny Cash's "Streets of Laredo" on my mp3 player. Not because it really fit with where I was but because I'd thought of that song earlier in the day when I was trying to train my self to pronounce Toledo correctly. English speakers from our part of the world are used to pronouncing a long "e" when we say "Toledo", which works if you're talking about the very plain city in Ohio. But if you're talking about the former capital of Spain and one of her most magnificent cities, well any Spaniard would cringe at that pronunciation. The proper way to say it is with a short "e". Kind of like how Johnny Cash says "Laredo" in that song. Hence my desire to listen to it as I reflected on my evening.

My day had started with a drive along the Mediterranean and through the desolate landscape you see in spaghetti westerns. In the south of Spain. It was my transition from staying at a condo along the beach with my mom and her husband and just enjoying a relaxing vacation to exploring some of Spain on my own and taking in some of the major sights. And part of that transition was going to be flying from Almeria to Madrid, where I'd make my way to the train station and catch a high speed train to Toledo.

Well my flight was delayed, and delayed again, and I spent a lot of time in Almeria's tiny airport. But I eventually got to Madrid, and from then on my journey went smoothly. And I arrived in Toledo in the evening before it was dark.

My guide book suggested taking a bus to the old city from the train station, but it also mentioned that it was only a pleasant 20 minute walk. So I decided to walk it. And it was a nice walk. Except that after crossing Rio Tajo I had to ascend some very steep steps with what was becoming an increasingly heavy backpack (you know the big backpacking kind). As I made my way through the streets and alleys looking for my hotel I was now tired, sweaty, and my shoulder and back muscles were becoming quite sore. It was hard to fully appreciate where I was as I desperately wanted to dump my pack, collapse on a bed, and take a shower. And I truly enjoyed those things when the time and place for them finally came.

After that I decided it was time for a good meal. And you know Toledo is well known for some fine dining. I figured that you only find yourself in a place like this so often and that I should treat myself to a good meal, not even worrying about the cost. So I put on some of my dressier clothes, checked the guide book for a few recommendations, and was off to explore Toledo.

By now it was dark, and the experience of wandering the narrows streets of this old city was surreal. The streets would be relatively quiet, only for that silence to be periodically interrupted by sporadic groups of people either setting out or returning from dinner. It was getting close to 10pm, which seems to be the prime dinner hour in Spain.

I was having trouble knowing where I was going, but I decided not to fight it. So I put on my headphones and started to wander, not worrying about the map I had. And wandering those old cobbled streets amongst all of those magnificent stone buildings while listening to Metallica as covered by the four cellos' Apocalytptica. It all soon became one of those magnificently powerful moments where what you're listening to comes together with where you are and what you're seeing in that perfect way that overwhelms your senses. I can close my eyes and it comes back so easily, it's an incredible memory for me now.

Well I did eventually worry about whether or not I'd become lost. But after consulting the map I soon figured out where I was and meandered my way to where I wanted to go. I came upon a restaurant that I thought might be right for what I wanted. But as I peered inside the immaculate interior and the wait staff wearing tuxedos kind of intimidated me. It didn't feel right for me at that moment, even though I kind of knew that's what it was going to be. So I made my way for another place that I'd already passed and one that I'd read about and thought I might like.

The restaurant I went to was only a little less fancy. But it was quiet and I became comfortable there relatively quick. I was soon eating a wonderful salad and some delicious bread. I ordered a small bottle of red wine from the rioja region and some venison. The meat couldn't have been better prepared, I hardly had to chew it and it was delicious. I ate so well. And I finished things off with some marzipan and a "cafe con leche". By now I felt quite established at ordering coffee in spanish. So after muddling my way through the menu for most of the evening it felt good to know how to order something without pointing.

There's something about fine dining, and fine dining alone. It's not always comfortable. But on this night it was. And I returned to my hotel feeling fully satisfied with my night in this magnificent old city. And then I laid back on my bed and listened to a little Johnny Cash. Perfect.